180 Miles Down - 12 Left to Go

Blakey Ridge to Littlebeck, 18 Miles

It was another long day, but a very pleasant one (albeit damp). Just one more day to go on this leg of our walk.

We set off in the fog, following a downloaded map on our phone instead of our guidebook map, and promptly got ourselves onto the wrong path. We didn’t realize it for at least a couple of miles. To get ourselves back on course, we had to scamper straight up a hillside through the heather. We treaded carefully to avoid stirring up the nesting birds, but they were angry nonetheless. Gradually, we found our way back to the trail, just in time to cross paths with our new friend Rob. We spent the rest of the day walking together and sharing stories.

For my fellow Bird Nerds, we saw Red Grouse (including chicks that resembled dirty cotton balls with toothpick legs), Curlews and Lapwings.

It rained off and on throughout the day, and just when it seemed that it was going to clear up, Bob would take off his waterproofs and it would promptly start raining again. It happened time and time again. I was very amused.

We took it easy today, stopping twice for snacks and tea along the way. At one stop, a very generous inn owner offered to give us tea although the pub was closed. On our second stop, we enjoyed some local cheeses and a flapjack, and were entertained by some very friendly chickens. We met an older gentleman on the trail from Bozeman MT who was handing out customized map magnification tools to friendly people he met on the trail. Such a kind gesture!

We stopped at Grosmont, where we were able to see the steam locomotive that inspired the Hogwarts Express from the Harry Potter movies. They invited Bob to take photos inside the “cockpit“. Paul McMasters, we couldn’t help but think of you when were were admiring the train!

After leaving Grosmont, we had a steep climb and descent into the gorgeous farming village of Littlebeck. According to our guidebook, this area was a center of alum mining from the 17-19th centuries, but you’d never know it today. Nature has done a fantastic job of reclaiming the landscape.

We’re staying at a guest house and farm about 1/2 mile outside of Littlebeck. It’s a working cow and sheep farm. The huge, 300 year old farmhouse has the guest quarters sectioned off from the private residence. This place feels like you’re staying with your great aunt… it’s very comfortable and has a homey feel. It’s much different than any place we’ve stayed previously on this trip. By the time we arrived, taking a photo of the farmhouse was the last thing on my mind, so I’ll post pics of the farmhouse tomorrow.

Tomorrow is bittersweet, as it’s the last day on the Coast to Coast trail and then we’re off to our next walk in Scotland. What an incredible experience so far.

Day 13 pics will be posted shortly.

Good Night Friends and Family!