75 Miles Down - 117 Left to Go

Shap to Kirkby Stephen, 21 miles

Although today’s trek was long, it was very pleasant. We covered 21 miles, not including some sightseeing (a.k.a. minor navigational blunders). The weather forecast was calling for rain and high winds, but somehow we dodged it all. (We won’t be that lucky tomorrow!)

Last night in Shap, we had the best night of sleep since our trip began. We had intended to camp again, but the New Ing Lodge accepted our last minute request for their attic room, which was perfect except for the many flights of stairs we had to climb to reach our room!

Not wanting to face the same food challenges as yesterday, we stocked up on meat pies and protein bars at the local co-op before starting our walk today.

Our day today was spent in the North Yorkshire Dells. It’s hilly farmland and was such a change from the rocky, mountainous terrain we’ve been walking through since the beginning of the trip. Our legs and feet were much happier today.

An Aside on Sheep

It was difficult to take a photo today without capturing a sheep somewhere in the view. We’re here during lamb season, and they’re completely adorable - bounding around the pasture, playing king of the mountain with their lamb buddies. The little creatures have provided entertainment to many a trekker on this trip.

Another Aside (this one is grisly)

Moles are a problem in the farmlands of England, similar to prairie dogs in the US. We passed several fences today with little dead moles, strung up. It was very macabre. We researched and learned that professional mole catchers traditionally hang their catch on the farmer’s fence because they are paid per animal and they are displayed out in the open to avoid anyone cheating their way to a higher fee.

Ok, enough asides. Now back to the trek…

We spent a lot of time walking on our own today, but were usually in the vicinity of other walkers that we’ve come to know. It was so easy to get off course today, as there was a confluence of walking paths and livestock trails and the trail markings weren‘t abundant. On several occasions, one group would get off track and another group would catch the mistake and yell ahead. It spared us a long detour and we were later able to pay back the favor.

It took us 8 hrs to walk to Kirkby Stephen, where we’re staying at a lovely B&B called the Fletcher House. After several days of traditional English pub food, we decided to eat at a delicious Indian restaurant. Afterwards, we dropped into a local pub and were entertained by quiz night (Brian and Vikke - we would have made a great team!)

Tomorrow’s forecast is rainy and the trail is heading into peat bogs. Although our hike is expected to be shorter than today’s, our guidebook has warned us that the going will probably be slow.

If you’re interested in more sheep pics with an occasional human, check out the Day 6 gallery.

Wishing you all a good night!